Our guide to wild, Blue Zone island Ikaria
At the risk of outing myself as a total hippie, I’ll do just that. The energy on Ikaria is wild. It’s a word that comes up a lot in conversation about the island, and one local made the argument to me for about 10 minutes in the midst of a rather – you guessed it, wild – panigyri (more on these below) that winter is more harrowing in Ikaria than anywhere else in Greece. Forget about even comparing her to other Greek islands; wild Ikaria, as I’ve dubbed her, is quite unlike anywhere else.
The island has received quite a bit of press in recent years for being one of the world’s “blue zones”, something its locals chuckle about as if in some wry admittance that they’ve been onto something all along. After research found that 1 in 3 Ikarians live into their 90s, The New York Times dubbed it “the island where people forget to die.” Its rough terrain might make you question how this is so; wouldn’t people have to be quite tough to survive here? To an extent, this is true - the island has maintained relative isolation throughout history, as strong winds protected it from connection to the main shipping lanes. Nonetheless, its reputation as a health destination is centuries old. The phenomenon of Ikarian longevity has still not been totally explained by the extensive research conducted into the island, yet many experts have ultimately concluded that one of the keys lie in the islanders’ leisurely pace of life, vegetable-heavy diet, communal living style, and drinking wild herbal tisanes.
The New Yorker in me found the island almost unbearably slow at first. In the end, however, that became its medicine. Ikaria is a place where you can really begin challenging your belief that time is linear. When you check out of your accommodation, your proprietor is unlikely to even remember it’s your check out day (mine didn’t). Taking a cab involves stopping on the road to check on the status of the drivers’ olive oil, and checking out of a hotel can take so long that you might miss your much-anticipated surf lesson (more on THAT below). So, plan to not plan. Plan to take your time. Plan to stay up and sleep in late without fear of missing out on ANYTHING.
I believe most of the islands require many, many visits to really get to their core and write any sort of exhaustive feature. Then again, The New York Times sends people to cover islands who’ve never even been to Greece. So, here’s my perspective. I was lucky enough to have the founder of Digital Nomads Athens, Evi Missa, as a guide of sorts. Evi’s been visiting the island for a decade and was the perfect friend to explore with. She deserves co-authorship of this article and is the best darn community leader ever (shout out to Digital Nomads Athens for being awesome!)
Below is our guide to making the most of a few days on Ikaria.
(all photos ours unless credited otherwise. if you share, please tag @delphireclaimed)
1. Book in advance.
Ikariots don’t really care too much about tourism. Yes, they’re welcoming; no, they don’t respond with vigor to the demands of capitalism. That’s part of the charm and also probably why they live longer than the rest of us. Book your room early here, as supply is lower than most islands.
2. Bring comfortable, closed-toe shoes
This is not an island for your new Greek sandals, wedges, or flimsy flip flops. If you’re going to dance at crowded panigyria (more on those below), you need closed-toe shoes, end of story. I bought an 8-euro pair on the island and they were perfect for dancing and keeping my toes protected. You’ll also want to pack something you feel comfortable hiking in, as Seychelles beach is a must visit and requires a bit of a scramble.
3. Dance at a Panigyri
Whether you’re Greek or not, this is an experience that must be had. Ikaria is renowned for hosting panigyria all year long, while in many places in Greece they happen solely around August 15 or specific holidays. I’ve been to many panigyria but had never experienced the famed Ikarian ones. We went to a couple, and my favorite was in the village of Arethousa.
If you arrive early to eat, be sure to take a post-dinner nap and return around 12:30 in time to dance till dawn.
4. Take a surf lesson at Ikaria surf school
Ikaria is one of the best places in Greece to surf, and the waves’ size and strength makes it an ideal place to learn. The Ikaria Surf School has helped spread the love to international visitors. Located on beautiful Messakti Beach in Gialiskari (an area I’d recommend staying, as well), taking a class with one of their experienced, compassionate instructors is a must. If you want to sign up for one of their daily lessons, we recommend booking in advance, as they fill up. In addition to board rentals and lessons, the school offers yoga and a number of camps and retreats (think surfing and acroyoga) throughout the summer months.
5. Have a drink at Christos Raches
Unlike many islands, Ikaria’s villages are mainly hidden away from the coastline as an historical defense against pirates. Tucked up onto a mountain but close to popular coastal towns like Armenistis and Gialiskari, Christos Raches is a must-visit. Here you’ll find stores that open, well, whenever they feel like it. It’s not very crowded during the day, but the plateia fills up by night, and you can stay up drinking as late as your heart desires. There’s something about this village I can’t quite place a finger on, but we’ll file it under places where you’ll forget time exists.
6. Visit Seychelles Beach
Firstly: this popular beach WILL be crowded, so come early. Nonetheless, it’s worth seeing and makes for an excellent option on a windy day if you’re staying on the north side of the island.
The color of the water is unlike anything I’ve seen outside of the Caribbean. It’s not an “organized” beach, but a couple did show up on a boat to set up a stand with coffee and snacks. So, prepare! As mentioned above, you’ll have to walk downhill (you know what that means about leaving) to get there, so bring good shoes!
7. Take a trip to the monastery of Agia Theoktisti
Agia Theoktisi was a lesbian who sought asylum atop this mountain and now has a monastery in her honor. The real draw here (pictured above) is the home she built. Carved into a stone, one wonders if A: elves actually built this and B: how the heck one woman pulled this off. The nuns also make coffee, loukoumades, and local products.
Leave a bracelet as an offering and make a prayer in the name of bravery in all forms.
8. Try the local honey
Ikaria is full of honeybees, and one of its most well-known products is honey. It’s sold just about everywhere, and makes for the perfect addition to your breakfast. This also may be one of the easiest and only ways to take some fountain of youth effects home from the island of longevity.
9. Visit Nas / Naos Beach
Close to Armenistis and home to the Temple of Artemis Tavropolion, Nas is a must-visit. Come to visit the shrine or stay all day, but bear in mind that Nas can be a dangerous place for swimming; unexpected currents have taken many unsuspecting swimmers to meet their fate. This is just something that has to be said, because I, for one, have been known to swim out quite far.
10. Check out the thermal springs
Known for centuries for its healing thermal waters, there are many ways you can experience the thermal springs on Ikaria.
Many visit Therma, located just east of the port town Agios Kyrkiros. You’ll pay, but it’s more ‘organized.’
Free, natural springs are also an option. Check out Therma Lefkada, located on the south side of the island, west of Agios Kyrkiros.
Click here for a more detailed run-down on hot springs in Ikaria.
11. EAT!
Not an exhaustive list, at all, but below are highlights from what I tried.
Mary Mary in Armenistis - just about died for the salads here and has a beautiful view of Armenistis as well!
Taverna Deilino in Gialiskari - overlooks the quaint Church of the Ascension and the beach.
Kioupi - also in Gialiskari and delicious.
12. Take Naps
One cannot keep going on Ikaria without naps. In fact, they’re part of the local culture. Take it “siga siga” and don’t forget to get some sleep amidst all of the fun!